Poland 2010 - Gdańsk Second Day

Grey and raining, turning to snow in the country in the afternoon. With alarms set for 7:50 and eight I got down for breakfast by about a quarter past, meeting Kate and Keith there. I over-ate but, knowing now my companions' laxity of timing, I thought it might be worthwhile insurance. Kate had booked a private tour to the Kashubian Lake District to the west of Gdańsk. Our guide was a very pleasant fellow in his late forties/early fifties who spoke excellent English and had a thorough and encyclopaedic knowledge of the district and its history. The prime drawback was the weather. We had little opportunity to admire what ought to have been gorgeous views.

We were informed that the Kashubians had their own separate language, which, although Slavic and related to Polish, was not a dialect (pace McWorter, who says there are no languages, only dialects). Notices and signs are printed in the two languages, as in Wales. We drove first to the village of Kartuzy where we visited a Carthusian (whence the village name) monastic church, thence to a family owned pottery that started in 1897, the year Dad was born. Two brothers, a sister and uncle work there. As a souvenir I bought a double pot - a folk item, to contain soup and potatoes separately. We visited a beauty spot in the lakes but rain spoilt any serious viewing. Our final but quite lengthy visit was to an exhibition of timber buildings. This occupied a large area, originally just a sawmill but now expanded to contain a number of projects and exhibits. There was a log cabin brought back from Siberia where large numbers of 'dissident' Poles had been exiled. Another cabin came from Canada where groups Kashubians had emigrated to find a new life. There they found it isolated and very hard. There was also a huge timber hotel and apartment block and a community centre that boasted the longest table made from a single tree, aiming (successfully) at the Guinness Book of Records.

Keith had suggested that I visit an architectural museum on the way back to the hotel but along riverfront were lots of jewellers selling amber. I wandered from shop to shop looking for something that I liked and was not beyond reason. Incidentally, in one of the shops I found that I was better able to communicate in German rather than English!

Once again we walked to the old town, aiming initially for 'Velevetka' again, but We spotted a Russian restaurant on the way and ate quite reasonably there.



Page last modified: 21st August 2019